New guy here. The wife just bought a used 2004 Z71 Suburban. The battery died yesterday. With the dead battery and the keys out of the ignition, the blowers in the front of the cab still continued to run. I removed the 40A fuse from under hood. With the fuse removed, the blower does not run.

I bought a new Blower Motor Resistor. I understand it to be located behind the glove box or behind the black foot panel. I have removed both items. I cannot find anything resembling the part I got.

Where does the blower motor resistor get installed?

Thanks.

The FNG

Not sure if this is the same problem I had last year, Ignition off, AC / Heater fan always on. I have a post here. Yes it was the resistor pack. Could not do it then because it was toooooo cold outside. Cost $$$


Here is the picture http://z71tahoe-suburban.com/iboard/index....ic=4741&hl=

For NBS with cabin filter, you need to remove the bottom panel like replacing the cabin filter.

I would follow the blower motor wires and go from there. Can you put a follow up post how this

worked out for you. I am about to replace this again, only position 5 works right now.

That's it. I just couldn't find anything under there that resembled the new part. I will follow this tomorrow with some pics of my own and see how things go. Thanks.

How did the install go? I need to replace this part also.

OK, the part I received from CarQuest matches the part in the write-up with photos. Problem now is I don't have an existing part like that under the dash. My part has two aluminum looking flat pieces. Is it possible the 2004 has a '03 part?

OK, finally found the right part and installed it today. The fans appear to be working in all increments. My Z71 Suburban has the Auto Climate Control option installed and that is why the resistor did not work. Mine does not have the resistor, but instead, has a module. I think it is called the A/C Heater Control Module. For the Auto Climate Control, the correct part number is 89018778. A part looking almost identical to it does not work because of the screw hole mounts. That part number is 93803635. Here are some photos:

Step #1: Remove the kick plate. It has 4 screws but only the two on the right need removed.
[attachmentid=7709]

Step #2: Remove the bad module located right in front. You can't miss it.
[attachmentid=7710]

Step #3: Ensure you have the correct part. Part number is 89018778. Notice the screw hole mounts.
[attachmentid=7714]

Step#4: The wrong part. This module part number is 93803635. Notice the screw hole mounts.
[attachmentid=7712]

Step #5: Disconnect existing bad module from blower motor. It is located in back of motor.
[attachmentid=7713]

Step #6: Installed new correct module.
[attachmentid=7711]

Thanks for help getting me there. I tried adding photos from Photobucket, but it wouldn't allow dynamic pages. I used the add file attachments but really have no idea what that does.

Nice post - Thanks!

Thanks for adding the pics. They are in the right order.

Additional Notes: I replaced the blower resistor on my Tahoe 02-LS yesterday, something different...

1. The lower panel cover have 4 screws needed 7 mm socket.

2. The Cabin Filter housing cover and the Resistor module screws needed 5.5 mm socket.

3. The Blower resistor is just to the right of the cabin filter housing cover. There will be a heavy
gauge Black and Red Wire for the motor, I think it is a 12 gauge wire. If this is your first time
to do this, it might help if you have the part on hand to recognize the shape and form.

4. There may be a motor housing cover that will make it difficult to remove the blower motor connector.
I removed another 7 mm screw to loosen the cover, so I can just see where the connector is.
Then with a long flat blade screwdriver, pushed on the connector tab with my right hand and pulled the
wire with the left hand. This is the part that delayed me until I figured out the cover. The screw is right there in front. You don't need to drop the blower motor cover.

5. The blower resistor assembly I pulled out (which was replaced by a dealer last Feb 07) looks
exactly the same as the one I got from my local auto parts store for $26.00. Markings and all
including what country it was made from in Central Europe. Now, I wonder if it will last just as long.

6. Yes, I replaced the cabin filter. We don't take the truck off road but I was surprised to see
how bad and dirty it looks with less than 10K miles on the filter. You may want to brush off left over
dirt in the filter housing with an old tooth brush or vacuum it out.

Otherwise, the instructions presented on this thread is just like it is.

Just a few words of thanks... . The "step-by-step" directions in this post made the job REAL easy!

I finally got around to changing out my blower motor resistor (the low speed was not working). I thought I could just let it go, but it was bugging me, so I replaced it, along with the cabin air filter.

As I said, with the step by step directions, along with the correct head sizes for the small screws, it was a breeze. Now all of the 5 speeds work again! I was surprised at how much crap was on the cabin filter! Heck, I had never changed it before, and since I bought the truck used several years ago, it was overdue.

Thanks again . I love this forum!!!

Thanks for the discussion. I'm a newby with an 01 tahoe and it was very helpful.

so, i repaired the resistor on my dad's 03 'rado yesterday...... one of the little u-shaped wires had broken away from the solder joints and only high was working. i simply soldered it back on and aba-ca-dabra.... she works perfectly!

just figured that might be a little cheaper than replacing the entire unit....

Now you can just charge your dad $20 and tell him he saved $5 on the part...

wow, team data, great post! our tahoe blower settings 1 thru 4 haven't worked for over a year, but now i'm gonna give this a shot!

Hi new to the forum and am hoping for some help/guidance. I have a similar problem with my 2004 Avalanche (not climate control equipped). Setting 5 worked for a few days and now the blower will not run at all. Can someone tell me what is wrong the part number I would need (assuming resister pack as above) and basic process to change it out?"

Welcome. Sounds very much like your resistor pack is toast. Same basic procedure.

Thanks! Any idea what part number I would need for an 04 Avalanche? I can print the pictures as a guide if I know what part I need to get.

89018596 for '03 and newer manual control. Hope that helps.

THANKS! I am sure it will - but will let you know for sure early next week.

Thanks again,

Matt

Finally had time to get er done. Dropped the two right hand screws for the cover. Bent the cover down and removed the two screws for the module. Just like bluesplash said, could not get the doggone motor connector plug out--wasted 45 minutes. Some moronic GM engineer set things up so the plug is at the back of the motor (front of the truck). So I cut the wires to get the part in my hand and headed off to NAPA. They said they had the right part for $28, but it was the wrong bolt hole pattern, same issue as teamdata had. They told me to "just drill some new holes". Uh, thanks but no thanks. Called Carquest, "we'll have it here tomorrow, $35", but they couldn't guarantee the bolt hole pattern. Enough already. Called the GM dealer, they had the correct superceded part, $60. Went there and bought it. They printed out six pages of instructions for me, covering how to drop the cover, change the resistor, even remove the blower motor if needed. Now that I could see the connector I could see where to push on it with a screwdriver to get the old one out. But I had to remove the other two cover screws and pull the cover out of there. Had my 10 yr old son crawl under and presto the connector was out. Plugged in the new connector, attached the wiring harness to the new resistor receptacle and mounted it with the two screws. Tested the blower settings and all worked. Slid the cover back in and got 3 of 4 screws in place right away. Then wasted over an hour trying to get the 4th screw in. Another stupid design--the 2nd screw from the left is recessed deeply into the cover, and line up with the hump in the floor. You have very little room to work a socket ratchet under there, and it's very difficult to align the holes and get the screw started. Anyway got the screw started and turned in about 1/3 of the way and couldn't get any more. Other 3 were tight. So now all blower settings work and the wife is happy.

The new parts (wrong bolt hole pattern at NAPA and the GM dealer part (which btw has dual bolt hole patterns, i.e. is universal)) do not have the "circuit board resistor" look of the old part--they have a sort of "tower" of a resistor bundle which is wrapped with some protective material. They told me it's supposed to handle high heat better, without burning out all the time.

btw, the reason the board is stuck up into the blower airstream is because it runs very, very hot and without some airflow to pull the heat it would fry itself all the time.

So thanks for the advice and directions. In the end, with running around for parts, it took me 4 hours to do the whole thing. It's done!! Time to go have a beer and celebrate.



.

How does one measure success?? WARM FEET! Thanks for all the help and advice and of course the excellent pictures provided further up the post list.

Congrats! Glad it worked out. It's always nice to have warm feet....at least in winter....

I just replaced my Blower Motor Resistor in my 2004 Z71. GM has replaced the original part with a new part. The dealer told me the front adapter plate (used to line the screw holes up) would not be needed however, I found out that it was in my case. They charged me $46.00 for the part. The hardest part was getting the wire harness disconected from the rear of the motor. The second hardest part was getting the kick pannel back on since it is difficult to line the screws up with the holes (for me anyway).

Part numbers 89019088 and 89019089 were both available from my local parts store however, the prices were quite different ($66 and $36 respectively). Of course I ended up needing the more expensive of the two. The dealer cut me a break on the price (ended up cheaper to buy from them in this case).

1. Original part #15305077
1. New part #89019088

I do not know that I could have pulled this off myself without the help of the folks on this board.

Thanks..................

What is wrong with this resistor pack? Seems like I am replacing every year. The 5th position is gone again.

Just wondering if anyone here has a diagram for this blower speed control. I want to check with my electronics
resources/catalog if there is any alternative part to fix the burned out resistors or DC motor speed control I could swap.

I suspect the aftermarket resistors maybe under spec that is why they burn out quickly. Thanks.

If you have been using aftermarket, that would be my thought as well.

I had a dealer replaced it before, when it failed again a year later, I replaced myself. The aftermarket part
is exactly the same as what the dealer had put in. Markings, number and country of origin. I went to another
dealer to get the part, looks like the same aftermarket, so I went aftermarket at 50% less than the dealer.

It is possible that you have an obstruction with the blower--or the blower bearings are shot. Drawing too much current will cause the resistors to burn out.

Fairly late to this topic, but had a question anyway.

Couple of years ago I had the blower motor and resistor replaced under warranty on my '03 z71 Suburban.
Since then all the blower positions work, but will occaisionally "cycle" from normal flow to a lower flow within a
given switch position. It will stay on a low output no matter which position the switch is in, but will still go up as the
switch is moved from 1 to 5. Iow, I could be on position 3 and the air flow will cut in about half. Then when I go to 5,1,4 or any position, they all flow at about half of what that particular position should flow. At some point, the system will change back to "normal" all of a sudden, and all positions will go back to about double what they were doing, which I believe is the actual normal flow. Dealer noted my complaints, but "could not reproduce" the problem, and therefore, would not do any further work. They thought it might be a faulty or heat sensitive resistor. Any experience with this issue, or is it simply another resistor replacement?

Thank you.
Daniel

That sounds to be a poor solder joint on the resistor pack. It should be fixed by simply replacing the resistor pack--or if you are adventurous, attempt to repair it.

I'll pull the cover and check it out. Thanks.

Thanks for posting just replaced mine at 72000 miles? Wouldn't shut off at 4AM had to hunt around in the dark and pull the fuse till morning. It's pretty bad when the dealership STOCKS them??? $152 dollars of planned obsolecence! Grrrr

I have a 2004 suburban it does not have the auto climate. i went out today and only have setting 5 working on the fan switch. is this the resistor pack everyone is replacing??


PLease Help

Sounds like your resistor pack is blown.....

... But, heck, agreeing with CarGuru is easy!

I lost a low speed on mine, and replaced the resistor pack, and all is fine now.

Hi all....
Just replaced my resistor pack in my 2006 Tahoe LS. Manual control a/c.... after losing fan speed position 2..all others worked perfectly.
The original unit had 2 internal resistor contacts rusted off....figured it was from moisture in A/C duct work.
Connector looked perfect. No signs of heat related injuries at all.
Went to Autozone for their replacement resistor assembly (p/n DR775 or RU 1064) $31.00.
Looked identical but the mounting holes where way off. The original GM has 2 sets of holes..the Autozone one didn't.

So off to local GM dealer..... needed VIN number to ensure correct unit....lots of different types...

The one for my truck was GM part number = 89019088 or ACD # 15-81086. $66.00

Perfect match just double the price. Oh well!!

Install was super easy...of course the pictures here helped to locate things....
Once you get all tools required...which was a 7mm socket to remove lower dash cover panel....
and then a 7/32 socket to remove resistor assembly.
15 minute job.

Thanks to all the help from the people here....
Good stuff....

p.s. .... blower works perfect now.

Yay me!!!

Six words--thank you, thank you , thank you

agreed, much thanks... I will be doing this as well over the holidays!

I've discovered that the colorados/canyons have a problem with the female prongs, in the resistor pack connector, flexing and breaking the circuit. I'd recommend checking this if you have intermittent problems with fan speed....

Hi All:
Just a word of thanks for all the good posts on this topic. I have the resistor pack in hand and heading into town to get the new part and get it installed to suprise the wife, and put an end to the nagging. Just a note on electrical connectors, be patient with them, usually a small straight blade screwdriver to help lift or push on the locking tab while pulling on the connector is all that is needed to remove them easily.
Thanks,
MB

MossBoss - Good to have you aboard!

There are many good fix-it tips here, as I'm sure you'll find out as you navigate the pages. Glad you were able to find one to help you out. I, long with many others, have used the info on this forum to save us many headaches. The Blower motor Resistor fix is just one of many that I have benefitted from.

If you have some tips of your own, start a post and let us know!

Just turned on the AC in the Sub and what.... nothing, 2 nothing, 3 nothing, 4 nothing, 5 working. scratched my head, figured I take it in but checked here first.... A little search and this. Went to NAPA got one for $51, the kid behind the counter says.... Those have a tendency to go out every few years, tape the receipt to the kick panel, it has a lifetime warranty.... Done. Works fine now and the future!!!

Mg

Thats actually a good recommendation but one issue, those receipts erase after a few years. Welcome to thermal paper the the fade of time.

Make a copy of it first, then tape it (the copy) to the kick panel.

AND YET ANOTHER SATISFIED CUSTOMER!!!!

Before I found this post, I was contemplating on taking my 03 Tahoe to the stealership and have them fix it. I really didn't want to go there and have to drop my shorts and bend over to have them rape me for a simple fix, so I decided to research the problem on the forum instead.

Thanks Team D.A.T.A. for posting the part #'s and the pics of the A/C Heater resistor location. My HVAC blower began its downhill slide about 5 months ago and was working intermittently before it finally a couple of weeks ago. After I found this post with this wealth if information, I went to the stealership, got the replacement part, and installed it in less than 20 minutes. A/C is now working perfectly!!! I LOVE THIS FORUM!!!

This post saved me quite a bit of coin!!! Thanks again TEAM D.A.T.A.!!!

Add me to the list of satisfied customer!

Lost 1-4 yesterday, and had been without 1 for months.

A quick trip to GM, got the correct part #, a 10% discount (thanks to the prices you guys were quoting on here), and 20 min later...WALLA!

This might explain why...

That one is in great condition! It only needs solder on 3 joints

The last one I repaired had a broken circuit in about 8 different places!

Me also, thanks guy's great thread. Helped me save much greenage. With your help I had the job done in like 20mins and that included snapping a few pix!





I switched the postions??

CHILLIN!