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Tahoe Suburban Throttle Body Bypass Mod
Scott
post Jun 15 2004, 11:45 AM
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Instructions on how to perform the popular Throttle Body Bypass mod.
Attached File(s)
Attached File  Throttle_Body_Bypass_Mod.pdf ( 217.01K ) Number of downloads: 2909
 


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Tither
post Dec 9 2004, 09:20 PM
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what does it do when you bypass it? sorry new stuff to me biggrin.gif thanks


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carguru
post Dec 9 2004, 09:33 PM
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What this mod does is technically reduce the intake air temperature at the throttle body. By design, there is coolant circulating through the throttle body. Once the vehicle reaches operating temperature, the coolant heats the air coming into the throttle body. This mod just reroutes the coolant away from the throttle body.


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Tither
post Dec 9 2004, 09:49 PM
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so that will give me more HP... or just run better? thanks!!


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carguru
post Dec 9 2004, 10:07 PM
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It is suppose to give you more horsepower. However, under extreme cold conditions, there may be some issues.


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Scott
post Dec 10 2004, 09:01 AM
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To be honest, while some [creeps] out there sell kits and claim ridiculous HP increases, I seriously doubt this alone will account for more than 3 or 4 hp max. The residence time of the airflow is just too short to have much of an effect.

I will say though, we get some pretty cold winters in Chicago, and I've never ran into an icing problem. I suppose if I lived further north, I'd swap back to stock in the winter. The nice thing is, this is a very quick and easy mod that you can go back and forth at will.


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carguru
post Dec 10 2004, 10:24 AM
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Yep, the coolant flow is to prevent icing in cold climates. Haven't really heard of anyone with problems, but it is possible.


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DMarts10
post May 25 2005, 10:52 PM
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chevrolet started running colant throgh the throttle bodies in TPI (tune port injection) engines found in some camaros and corvettes in the late 80s. The purpose was to keep the gas from freezing in the throttle body in extreme cold conditions. It was considered by most people to be a pointless addition. Many people choose to bypass the throttle body, but dynos prove that it really doesnt help performance at all to bypass it, because the air is moving through the throttle body too quickly to heat the air. Personally id leave it alone unless u are choosing to build a high performance drag tahoe, in which case u picked the wrong car to "sup up" and drag race.


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Scott
post May 26 2005, 12:09 AM
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For a mod that costs less than a couple of bucks that might give you an extra couple of HP, on a $/HP analysis that's very good. If there are no draw backs - and I've been doing this for perhaps 20 years without an issue, why not?


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ccoder32
post May 26 2005, 06:34 AM
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Easy mod! Recommended.
I did it last weekend while doing an LS1 servo upgrade on the trany (C cool.gif cool.gif L)

This post has been edited by ccoder32: May 26 2005, 06:35 AM


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Jonota
post Jun 5 2005, 02:16 PM
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Not sure on this particular vehicle but on a bone stock LT1 F-body, the throttle body bypass was good for and average 5-7 RWHP... good enough for me to take the 5 min to do it!

Jonota


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kutscher
post Jul 19 2005, 09:32 AM
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Make sure the tahoe is completely cool. I left mine sit 2 hours and then did this. I have some little burns now, there is quite a bit of fluid that comes out when it is still warm.. Live and learn I guess..


e


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sinistar
post Oct 14 2005, 04:08 PM
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Got the pieces and am going to try this little mod today as soon as the engine cools.


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sinistar
post Oct 14 2005, 06:25 PM
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Welp I just finished. A little harder to wrench on the engine with the grille guard adding some space in between, but went pretty easy. ACtually felt like there was a little extra pep when done!

...........?or is it all in my mind?............ blink.gif



oh and also noticed the TB needs a cleaning.. that's next

This post has been edited by sinistar: Oct 14 2005, 07:10 PM


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Scott
post Oct 15 2005, 05:48 AM
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If you can notice a difference of a couple of hp, it would probably be noticed more by your seat. laugh.gif


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sinistar
post Oct 15 2005, 08:49 AM
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hehe yes tongue.gif

Well when I get the chance the TB will be cleaned, the top end will be seafoamed
and I'm weighing my options for an air filter replacement. Then we'll see if there's something significant to notice!


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Ken
post Oct 16 2005, 05:57 AM
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I put an airaid tube on at the same time when I did the thottle body mod - very nice sound! Not much for performance or MPG increase though.


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Z'06
post Feb 14 2006, 12:54 PM
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Nice instructions, Scott! I quickly knocked it out this morning before going to work. My only question now that this is done - is it necessary to bleed the air out of the cooling system since this possibly created an air pocket in the lines? If so, how would I do it? Thanks in advance.


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Dusty
post Feb 14 2006, 04:16 PM
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Lesson learned from experience:

Do not go to the autoparts store and purchase PLASTIC connectors for your small diameter TB coolant tubing. Go to the Home Depot and pick up a BRASS barb-style connector in the plumbing section. It'll cost you $2-4 at most. This makes an excellent TB bypass kit when used with the stock hose clamps. The plastic ones have a tendency to fail and cause lots of smoke, steam and headache.

sad.gif


2Hoe - if you make certain that the coolant is cold (engine sitting overnight helps) you will be utilizing the highest point of the cooling system. As a matter of fact, the connectors near the TB are at the point where the air is bled from the system. So, in this case, no you should not have any need to bleed the system of air.

-Dusty
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Z'06
post Feb 14 2006, 05:01 PM
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Thanks for the input on not having to bleed the system, Dusty. I am not sure I understand the consequences of not bleeding it when you are supposed to, so any mechanical advice is appreciated.

I agree with your advice to use the 1/4" brass barb splicer ($1.94 after tax from a boutique hardware store in Houston) - why risk the weaker plastic alternative?


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2006 Z71 Tahoe - Silver Birch Metallic
GO: Wheatley in-person 93-oct. tune, TR220-112 cam, PAC 1218 springs, Comp rocker trunions, U/D pulley, LS2 timing chain, JBA headers, Magnaflow y-pipe/hi-flows/catback, AEM CAI, 180 stat, ported TB, Circle D 3200, TransGo HD2, billet servos, Tru-Cool 40K, LS6 valley cover, and many more...
SHOW: Nitto 295/70/17, Ford keys, 2" spacers, Bilstein 5100, LEDs, SS cluster, and many more...
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