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Tahoe Suburban Fog Lights with High Beams Mod
Scott
post Jul 11 2004, 10:12 PM
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This mod will allow the fog lights to stay on when the high beams are engaged, while retaining normal operation.
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Attached File  Fog_lights_on_with_High_Beams_Mod.pdf ( 76.75K ) Number of downloads: 3897
 


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Tither
post Dec 9 2004, 09:24 PM
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cool... is there a way to make the fog lights come on auto with my regular lights?
im in a 2000 model. im not sure if the new ones have that option.
thanks


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Scott
post Dec 10 2004, 08:37 AM
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Hi Paster Phil!

Yes, in fact if you read some of the other lighting threads, I've got an all-inclusive system that I've been running that I've been working with an electrical engineer to develop into a more elegant and easy to install mod for you all.

Anyway, my fogs come on automatically when the low beams fire and remain on when I engage the high beams. When the headlights are off, the fogs retain their normal on and off operation. Also, when I engage my high beams, in addition to my fogs, my low beams and DRL's fire as well. Kind'a like Spector, but I call it the Wall of Light! I've attached a photo below.

In the meantime, the answer is definitely yes, but how you would do it would be determined upon what other lighting mod you plan to incorporateas well. If you will be doing the 4 ways ( low beams with high beams ) the easiest way would be to fire the fog relay into the low beam +.
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Attached File  All_Lights_on.jpg ( 25.22K ) Number of downloads: 220
 


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Tither
post Dec 10 2004, 10:33 PM
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thanks the system sound great , when do you think it might be available? really what i would like is for them to come on autp with my regs. and stay on with the highs. do i need to be a electrition to make this happen? laugh.gif thanks


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Scott
post Dec 10 2004, 11:31 PM
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At the rate it's going, probably a few more months...

The easiest way to do it now is to do the 4-way mod and then the fog mod as I said above, tap into the LB+ to the new fog relay terminal 86. That'll fire the fogs any time the LB's are one, which combined with the 4 way mod, this means they will be on any time the headlights are on.

I would suggest reading both write ups and if you can make heads or tails, I would recommend enlisting the help of someone you trust. wile these mods are very straight forward and easy, if you make a mistake, I could be a biggie.


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03TahoeZ71
post Feb 14 2005, 03:30 AM
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Hello All! im new here! anyways id like to find out how i can have the fog lights come on when the LBs come on, thats all so i dont have to puch the fog buton all the time, i dont think i need to have the lb hb + fogs mod just want the fogs to come on when the lb come on.... im sorry that might sound confusing.... wacko.gif Thank You! btw this is a GREAT SITE!!!! i look forward to many hours on here!

thanks again Kevin! smile.gif


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Scott
post Feb 14 2005, 08:22 AM
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Hi Kevin,

Welcome aboard!

To accomplish your request, you would follow these instructs - BUT - instead of tapping into the Green High Beam wire that goes to relay terminal 86, you would tap into the Low Beam Yellow wire.


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03TahoeZ71
post Feb 14 2005, 11:15 AM
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Sweet! i duno how many times ive had to push that button when i turn the key! lol thank you so much ill be doing this ASAP smile.gif

Kevin


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03 Chevy Tahoe Z71 Summit White Loaded

Mods:

22'' U2 Wheels (Chrome)
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Smooth Caps (White)
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Bug Deflector (White)
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9000K Niwalker 9006 H.I.D Kit
Optima Yellow Top Battery

Coming Soon:

XM (Factory Style)
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Biltstein Shocks (Waiting For Next GP!)

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SilvaDollaHoe
post Apr 8 2005, 07:16 AM
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QUOTE (Scott @ Jul 11 2004, 10:12 PM)
This mod will allow the fog lights to stay on when the high beams are engaged, while retaining normal operation.

Is this better, worse or not better or worse than the mod where you use diodes in the fuse block to accomplish the same thing? I think the diode mod would be less costly and easier to do since it's less components but want to do the better of the two mods.

Thanks!

This post has been edited by SilvaDollaHoe: Apr 8 2005, 07:17 AM


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Scott
post Apr 8 2005, 08:51 AM
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Hi SilvaDolla,

The diode 'trick' will work, and it is a little easier, but I've seen people run into problems with shorts and continuity issues later on.

I'm not a big fan of jamming anything in between the male and female connectors of any electrical component because it reduces the integrity of the original connection. Especially in an underhood environment.

The proper way is to use separate weather sealed relays. If I was going to go the diode route, I would hard wire the diodes to the appropriate wires on the back side of the junction box, shrink wrap the entire diode and splice and properly seal. This would keep it clean, relatively invisable, and retain the integrity of the relays/bases.

My .02 fwiw.


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SilvaDollaHoe
post Apr 8 2005, 01:33 PM
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From the underside, can I easily tell which wires I need to be connecting to?

Thanks again for the thorough response!


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Scott
post Apr 8 2005, 02:14 PM
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Hi Silva,

Yes, if you remove the cross brace, you can remove much of the underhood box and the base will tilt for you. Just take your time, use a continuity probe and double and triple check things. make sure you have the diode orientated the right way and ensure the connection is very well weather-proofed and insulated.

I will warn you though, going this route and making a mistake can be catastrophic. There are no second chances. You screw up and it could be extremely costly to resolve.

Therein lays the beauty of following the write up we put together at the top of this thread.

In other words, proceed with a lot of caution!


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carguru
post Apr 8 2005, 02:28 PM
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Just as another precaution going this route. Make sure that there is enough clearance with the diodes and any other component. If a stiffer part comes in contact, it could cause fretting wear on the shrink wrap (or whatever insulation you are using) and can cause a short from the diode to one of the other terminals. Even vibration from normal driving can cause a problem if the components are too close.


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Scott
post Apr 8 2005, 02:46 PM
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Absolutely CG.

Again, so that I'm clear to everyone, I do NOT recommend this route. However, if someone is hell bent on going the diode route, this is the lessor of evils vs. jamming them in under relays. I'm already regretting going down this diode path...


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SilvaDollaHoe
post Apr 8 2005, 08:46 PM
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IF I got the diode route, I ain't jamming anything. I will be carefully soldering the lead from my diode at the uppermost portion of the pin of the relay in sucha way that it doesn't hinder insertion whatsoever. I will assess it before doing so and if I think there's any chance of later problem, it will be a no-go. Short-out in any possibility will NOT be an option.

Thanks for your input. I'll let you know the outcome/

Thanks again!
Buster


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Scott
post Apr 8 2005, 09:06 PM
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Just take it slow and double check everything and you'll be fine.


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SilvaDollaHoe
post Apr 8 2005, 10:09 PM
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Scott, check your PM.

I tried a little something tonight that didn't work. I've done the 4-high mod with relays. Tonight I tried a diode between the fogs and the low beam relay. It worked great to cut the fogs on when the low beams were on. However, when the highs came on and the power to the fog button died, the fogs went out. That sucked. I think that would mean the only way to do it that way woul be with a diode between the high and low beam but that may OR MAY NOT BE to much going through the box. I just don't know. It would work if the power ain't too high.

I'm working on something that will give full control over the button but will make the fogs on by default and keep them on when the highs go on rather than killing them. Bare with me.

Buster

This post has been edited by SilvaDollaHoe: Apr 8 2005, 10:14 PM


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Scott
post Apr 9 2005, 12:00 AM
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Ok,

Recall that when you do the 4 way, the OEM LB relay is only being used during normal LB operation, right. The new relay is what's firing the LB during the HB operation. I bet you ran the diode from the OEM LB to the OEM fog Relay. That would cause exactly what you are describing.

To enable the fog with the HB's you want to run the diode from the NEW relay +coil to the fog relay. Alternatively, use a separate new relay and follow the 4 - way and Fogs with HB write ups.

Now if you think this through, you could run a diode from the +LB lead in between the bulb and the new relay to the +coil of the fog relay. This would have the fog come on automatically with the LB's like now, but they would remain on with the HB's too. Make sense now?

PS - I responded to your PM before I read this post - I didn't realize from your PM that you were this far along. I hope this helps you finish up. You're almost there...


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post Apr 22 2005, 09:18 PM
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scott is there a way where i can just have my fog lights on or just my lowbeams on and no tails or plate lights as i like to go mudding and some places i like to make so i can only see and noone can see me from behind cool.gif ph34r.gif


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Scott
post Apr 22 2005, 09:40 PM
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The first thing I'd recommend is swapping out the 4114's for the 3457LL's in the DRL's They're just about as bright as the Fogs! That might do the trick alone.

From there, you could always run a separate relay to fire the LB's triggered by an aux switch, but if stealth is the objective, give the upgraded DRL bulbs a shot. Take a look at the pic above. The 3457's are pretty bright!


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