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2004 front and rear door panel removal
Kenlacy
post Jul 2 2004, 11:14 PM
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Rear doors:
1) Remove lock bezel, easiest done if you slide a flatside screwdriver under the back side and pry up. (the rear doors do not have a screw to remove under the lock bezel)

2) Do the same with the bezel around the inside door handle.

3) Remove a screw just below the armrest (nothing has to be removed to see it), it is kind of hidden up below the armrest. (I missed this one the first time and forced the panel off, broke the attaching point, fixed it with plasticweld)

4) Remove a screw at the bottom of the door panel, towards the front of the vehicle.

5) The panel then should fairly easily slide right up, then unlplug the power window switch and it is removed. There are no clips that have to be replaced or forced out, trust me, I forced it the first time and wished I hadn't.

Front doors:

1) Remove lock bezel, easiest done if you slide a flatside screwdriver under the back side and pry up, remove the screw that is sitting behind the bezel.

2) Remove the bezel around the inside door handle.

3) Remove the triangular cover that covers the wiring going to the side view mirrors. Start at the top and pull towards you, two clips will slide out (along the top 2 edges of the triangle, then there is a tab at the bottom that comes out when you pop the top 2 clips loose.

4) Remove a screw just below the armrest (nothing has to be removed to see it), it is kind of hidden up below the armrest.

5) Now the panel should slide up fairly easily.

6) There are 5 electrical connections that have to be undone. At the bottom of the door, there is a courtesy light, you can pull the socket and bulb right out of the side. There are 3 basic connectors with probably 6-8 wires each, you just have to squeeze the tab a bit on each one and pull and they should release. There is one tricky one, I have never seen before, it is a longer, narrow connector and has a tab at the top. You have to push down on the tab, then rotate a cam like lock down to the side and the connector will release. IT is a lot easier if you have someone to hold the panel while you do this (I had only myslef at 1 AM and with little slack in the wiring, I got lucky to release it after 5-10 minutes of trying, it is almost impossible to see while holding the panel up as you can't get in between the panel and door so you are basically working blind).

7) The panel should now be free to remove completely.

If you are going ot be replacing your door handles or buckets - you will need to pull back the air/sound blocking plastic (it has a goo holding it in place, it will re-stick just fine). Then there are 3 nuts that have to be removed on each saddle, the rears are simple to access, the fronts require a bit more stretching and one of them on the fronts can be accessed by removing a rubber plug. Once this is done, unhook the linkage rod from the handle, and they should pop right out..

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Matt
post Jul 6 2004, 07:09 AM
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Ken,

Just a heads up, In the FAQ section there is a small write up on how to remove the front doors, with pictures included.

~bekind


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Kenlacy
post Jul 6 2004, 09:08 AM
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Bekind,

I saw that one and used it as well, I just didn't remove the door/window control panel because I have the seat heaters and adj pedals and the wires are tied in (I believe) - There were 4 different connectors on the drivers side vs 1 shown in that picture. I had to get back there and unhook plugs anyways. I just put another write up to include the extra plugs and rear doors because they are different.

Also, on the 2004, there is no screw behind the the power window/lock control plate - it is actually now located just below the armrest kind of hidden out of the way - nothing has to be removed to get to it - and then there is also the one behind the manual lock bezel as stated in that doc.

Just 2 different model years.
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Matt
post Jul 6 2004, 09:19 AM
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Very good info Ken, I didn't realize the differences. The pics are from an 02. Thanks for the heads up!!!

~bekind


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mods: Taylor Thundervolts Wires, vent visors, F@rd keys, BFG All Terrain TA ko, Manik Brush Guard, Hellwig front and rear sways, VHT flat black wheel paint
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DMAX Daddy
post Oct 4 2004, 08:56 AM
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In my 2004, I took off triangle, took out lock bezel, took out bezel around door handle, took out screw, then laid on the floor and did bench presses. That door panel was not sliding up easily.

Any chance my Suburban has another connector, or just stuck? I didnt have a chance to try the passenger door, but I was rocking the truck with the force I was pushing with. sad.gif
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carguru
post Oct 4 2004, 11:02 AM
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Tahoes, suburbans, and the trucks have the same door panels. How many screws did you take out total? There should be 1 under the door lock bezel, 1 at the bottom corner of the armrest (by the door handle) and 1 towards the back of the door panel under the round plastic cover (same color as the door panel). Three screws in all.


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DMAX Daddy
post Oct 4 2004, 01:15 PM
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I remember seing the one behind the lock bezel, but not the other one. Time for some more investigation!

If anyone has a picture of the third one under the round plastice cover I would greatly apprciate it.
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carguru
post Oct 4 2004, 01:31 PM
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I'll get one up later this eve when I get home. wink.gif


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carguru
post Oct 4 2004, 04:26 PM
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For '04, there is an early production version of the door panel and a later production of the front door panels. Ken's instructions cover the early production version. Here is what is holding the later production version on:

user posted image

Remove all of the screws and plugs, the door panel will slide up and off.


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DMAX Daddy
post Oct 4 2004, 04:47 PM
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I dont have the push plugs. Ill take out the one behind the lock bezel and hope for the best!

Thanks for your time biggrin.gif
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JDav
post Feb 4 2006, 03:10 PM
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what size socket do i need for the bolts that hold the door handles on?
I dont think any of my sockets are deep enough and i want to buy the right size.

edit: nevermind - its a 10mm, i just wasnt at the right angle.

now i'm trying to figure out how to unhook the linkage rod

edit: got the two rear handles switched out - just takes a little muscle - not too easy when my fingers are freezing!

a few tips when removing the door handles:
the back are fairly straight forward, as mentioned, but the fronts are more difficult.
There is a hole that you can get at the bottom rear bolt with a 10mm socket with an extension.
The top rear bolt is accessable after you pull a plastic plug from the side of the door (door jamb) - again using a 10mm socket
the front bolt is the most difficult. it is behind the motor for the window. If you go up at it from below with a 10mm box wrench, it isnt too difficult.
The linkage rods are in there pretty good and just take some muscle to pop out.
The lock assmbly is held in by a little circular clip type thing, just pry it up with a flathead and the lock pops out of the handle.

This post has been edited by JDav: Feb 5 2006, 03:04 PM


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mdusche
post Jul 28 2006, 04:08 PM
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Has anyone posted similar instructions for the 1999 Suburban? I need to get the driver's panel off. Thanks.
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