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Steering intermediate shaft lube procedure
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Tbone21
post Sep 16 2012, 08:55 PM
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Mine is a 06 and doing this. Should I order the parts?


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eppieguy
post Sep 17 2012, 07:03 AM
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QUOTE (Tbone21 @ Sep 16 2012, 10:55 PM) *
Mine is a 06 and doing this. Should I order the parts?

You can either order the shaft or unbolt yours and follow the procedure and hopefully have a free fix.


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mattvand
post Sep 17 2012, 01:43 PM
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I unbolted the lower bolt and tried the compression 'fix' til I can drum up some spare cash for a new shaft.

I don't know what the frick is going on, but I could only compress the shaft 1/2" and darn near didn't get it to extend back down to line up the bolt holes.



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Norseman
post Sep 17 2012, 02:33 PM
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QUOTE (mattvand @ Sep 17 2012, 09:43 PM) *
I unbolted the lower bolt and tried the compression 'fix' til I can drum up some spare cash for a new shaft.

I don't know what the frick is going on, but I could only compress the shaft 1/2" and darn near didn't get it to extend back down to line up the bolt holes.


Seriously?
It's 60 sumptn bucks...


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mattvand
post Sep 17 2012, 08:14 PM
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1. Live and work in Iowa, so no big pay job.
2. 2 kids under age 8, so daycare and activities costs $.
3. HUGE education loan that won't go away for a long time.
4. Gas = $$
5. Did other mods, then this clunk shows up so free cash already gone.
6. Mortgage.

So, yes, $60 can be a big deal to my family at times. We aren't all made of cash here in the cornbelt.


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hdwrench99
post Sep 17 2012, 08:20 PM
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QUOTE (mattvand @ Sep 17 2012, 10:14 PM) *
5. Did other mods, then this clunk shows up so free cash already gone.

Let's see, add cool mods or fix annoying clunk that doesn't really hunt anything?!? I think cool mods win every time. shades.gif


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eppieguy
post Sep 18 2012, 06:56 AM
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QUOTE (hdwrench99 @ Sep 17 2012, 10:20 PM) *
QUOTE (mattvand @ Sep 17 2012, 10:14 PM) *
5. Did other mods, then this clunk shows up so free cash already gone.

Let's see, add cool mods or fix annoying clunk that doesn't really hunt anything?!? I think cool mods win every time. shades.gif

Gotta do what ya gotta do. thumbsup.png


--------------------

2017 Audi Q7 Presitge
2014 Corvette C7 Premier Edition, 434 of 500
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4, Beater....
2012 Lexus GX460, Sold 08/16
2009 Corvette Coupe Painted Door Handles, Painted License Plate Frame, Front License plate custom lower mount, Nav. override switch, Fender screens, Z06 Painted 3rd. brake light custom leather padded console cover, customs floor mats. customs Carbon Fiber shift knob. ZR1 Repo Chrome wheels.(Sold 6/15)
2009 Tahoe Z71 6000K HID's & Fogs, PIAA High Beam Bulbs, Amber DRL's, Tint, BlackBear Tune, Bilstein 5100 Struts,1.5" rear spacers, Hellwig Sways. (Sold 07/12)
2004 Tahoe Z71 Too many Mods to list, check the garage (SOLD 03/09) Was a sad day.
I DON'T MIND GOING TO WORK BUT THAT 8 HOUR WAIT TO GO HOME SUCKS!!!

Go ahead and buy your Prius, I WANT YOUR GAS!
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taylorjm
post Sep 18 2012, 07:41 AM
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I agree. That's why I did the grease zerk mod on my steering shaft. I figured if it didn't work, then I'd buy a new one...maybe... When something is annoying but doesn't hurt anything, it's hard to justify spending money on fixing it! (especially with a 10 and 5 year old daughters...dang barbie's and new clothes are expensive! it really cuts into my mods budget!)


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eppieguy
post Sep 18 2012, 08:08 AM
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QUOTE (taylorjm @ Sep 18 2012, 09:41 AM) *
I agree. That's why I did the grease zerk mod on my steering shaft. I figured if it didn't work, then I'd buy a new one...maybe... When something is annoying but doesn't hurt anything, it's hard to justify spending money on fixing it! (especially with a 10 and 5 year old daughters...dang barbie's and new clothes are expensive! it really cuts into my mods budget!)

I did the zerk mod on my 04, lubed it once, never had to do it again.


--------------------

2017 Audi Q7 Presitge
2014 Corvette C7 Premier Edition, 434 of 500
2006 Ford Ranger 4x4, Beater....
2012 Lexus GX460, Sold 08/16
2009 Corvette Coupe Painted Door Handles, Painted License Plate Frame, Front License plate custom lower mount, Nav. override switch, Fender screens, Z06 Painted 3rd. brake light custom leather padded console cover, customs floor mats. customs Carbon Fiber shift knob. ZR1 Repo Chrome wheels.(Sold 6/15)
2009 Tahoe Z71 6000K HID's & Fogs, PIAA High Beam Bulbs, Amber DRL's, Tint, BlackBear Tune, Bilstein 5100 Struts,1.5" rear spacers, Hellwig Sways. (Sold 07/12)
2004 Tahoe Z71 Too many Mods to list, check the garage (SOLD 03/09) Was a sad day.
I DON'T MIND GOING TO WORK BUT THAT 8 HOUR WAIT TO GO HOME SUCKS!!!

Go ahead and buy your Prius, I WANT YOUR GAS!
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mattvand
post Sep 18 2012, 11:29 AM
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QUOTE (eppieguy @ Sep 18 2012, 09:08 AM) *
QUOTE (taylorjm @ Sep 18 2012, 09:41 AM) *
I agree. That's why I did the grease zerk mod on my steering shaft. I figured if it didn't work, then I'd buy a new one...maybe... When something is annoying but doesn't hurt anything, it's hard to justify spending money on fixing it! (especially with a 10 and 5 year old daughters...dang barbie's and new clothes are expensive! it really cuts into my mods budget!)

I did the zerk mod on my 04, lubed it once, never had to do it again.


That was what my ultimate goal was, the zerk mod, but I couldn't compress the shaft enough to get a stopper put in the end! I figure if I'm going to have to take the whole thing out just to get it compressed or install the zerk, I may as well get a new one.


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mattvand
post Oct 19 2012, 09:15 PM
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Swapped in a new Dorman ISS today, was a PITA, but well worth it.

Recommendation for those of you who will do this and who have adjustable pedals:
GM service manual calls for removal of the accelerator pedal from the firewall to get the old shaft out and new shaft in. Make sure you loosen the lower pedal bracket nut first, but do not remove it. This will allow you to slightly move the pedal assembly to facilitate access to the upper nut. I highly suggest using 2 6" 1/4 inch drive extensions w/10mm socket. You will need at least this length to get a halfway straight angle on the upper nut due to the accelerator pedal arm and the adjustable pedal motor being in the way. 3/8 drive will work, but the added thickness will make it even more difficult to get around the obstacles.

Good luck!


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'03 Z
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04gmc
post Oct 19 2012, 11:26 PM
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Thanks! I'm putting in a new one on Sunday and didn't even know that needed to be done. I was just going to follow the removal steps shown in the PDF on the first page if this thread. Do you have a link to the instructions you used by chance?


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mattvand
post Oct 20 2012, 12:12 AM
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Don't have a link, I have a CD with some service manuals on it. Sorry.


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mattvand
post Oct 20 2012, 09:15 AM
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Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft Replacement
Tools Required
J 42640 Steering Column Anti-Rotation Pin

Removal Procedure

Notice: The wheels of the vehicle must be straight ahead and the steering column in the LOCK position before disconnecting the steering column or intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Failure to do so will cause the SIR coil assembly to become uncentered, which may cause damage to the coil assembly.

Install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
Important: Mark the relationship of the intermediate shaft components in order to assure proper installation.

Mark the relationships of the following components:
Mark the relationship of the bolt and clamp at both ends of the upper intermediate shaft.

Mark the relationship of the upper intermediate shaft to the lower intermediate shaft.


Remove the nut and bolt from the lower shaft to upper shaft connection.


Remove the nut and bolt (1) from the upper shaft (2) to steering column connection.
Slide the intermediate shaft down, out of the steering column connection.
Remove the accelerator pedal position sensor. Refer to Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Replacement or Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Replacement .
Slide the upper intermediate shaft towards the instrument panel, out of the lower intermediate shaft, and remove the shaft from the vehicle.



Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Replacement
Removal Procedure
Notice: Handle the electronic throttle control components carefully. Use cleanliness in order to prevent damage. Do not drop the electronic throttle control components. Do not roughly handle the electronic throttle control components. Do not immerse the electronic throttle control components in cleaning solvents of any type.


Remove the connector position assurance (CPA) retainer.
Disconnect the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor electrical connector.
Reposition the carpet to access the lower nut.

Remove the accelerator pedal nuts.
Remove the accelerator pedal assembly.

Installation Procedure

Install the accelerator pedal assembly.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install the accelerator pedal nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).





Connect the APP sensor electrical connector.
Reposition the carpet.
Connect a scan tool in order to test for proper throttle-opening and throttle-closing range.
Operate the accelerator pedal and monitor the throttle angles. The accelerator pedal should operate freely, without binding, between a closed throttle, and a wide open throttle (WOT).
Verify that the vehicle meets the following conditions:
The vehicle is not in a reduced engine power mode.

The ignition is ON.

The engine is OFF.

Inspect the carpet fit under the accelerator pedal.



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'03 Z
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04gmc
post Nov 25 2012, 11:35 AM
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Just replaced mine last night with the GM replacement and the difference was noticeable immediately. The steering feels much more stable without that terrible clunk! A few things worth mentioning:

1. The instructions suggest using part J42640 to keep the steering wheel locked....since I didn't have one of these I decided to loop the seat belt through the steering wheel instead, which worked perfectly.

2. When removing the accel. pedal I found it easiest to remove the bottom bolt first, then in order to get to the top bolt I removed the spring on the left side of the pedal (when you look at it you'll know what i'm talking about) this gives you just enough space to reach the top bolt with a drive extension. Also, after unbolting the pedal I just let it lay on the floor, I didn't find it necessary to remove any of the electrical connections. (this only applies to those who have adjustable pedals)

All in all it took me about 1 1/2 hours but I was also working in the dark with a flashlight.


--------------------

2004 GMC Yukon 4x4

295 Nitto TGs. Keys and Spacers. Light bar with Warns. 20% tint. FM 50SUV. Pioneer Avic-f90bt. PIAA bulbs. 4 on high mod.
Bushwacker Flares. Weathertech Floormats. K&N filter. Airaid intake tube. BB Tune.
My Garage
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jj_nycguy
post Nov 25 2012, 11:48 AM
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This video may help, too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcvU1AIIvPA...ture=plpp_video

I had a hard time getting to the fastener under the dash so I opted for the "slide the shaft up and down" procedure to see how long that works. Next time it clunks, I will use the new GM replacement part that is in my garage.


--------------------
John


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